All Culinary Artist Should Study At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Eatery Ranks Fourth on List of London’s Leading Restaurants.

When curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their modest shop achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.